El Jadida's Greatest Treasure Beneath the Ground
Hidden beneath the stone streets of El Jadida's UNESCO-listed Portuguese Medina lies one of Morocco's most extraordinary architectural wonders: the Portuguese Cistern, known locally as La Citerne Portugaise. Built in the early 16th century, this vast underground reservoir has captivated explorers, filmmakers, and travellers for generations — and for good reason.
A Brief History
El Jadida — originally called Mazagan — was a Portuguese fortified trading post established around 1513. The cistern was constructed as part of the original fortifications, intended to store freshwater for the garrison during sieges. For over two centuries, the Portuguese maintained their stronghold here before eventually abandoning it in 1769, leaving behind a remarkable architectural legacy.
The cistern was rediscovered by Moroccan residents in the 19th century after they noticed light filtering through an opening in the floor of a shop above. The water that now fills the floor — just a few centimetres deep — creates mirror-like reflections of the vaulted ceiling, producing the breathtaking visual effect that makes this place so photogenic.
Architectural Features
- Vaulted Gothic arches supported by five rows of columns
- A single oculus (circular skylight) piercing the roof, casting a dramatic shaft of light
- A shallow water floor that creates perfect reflections of the ceiling
- Constructed entirely from local stone in the Manueline architectural style
- Floor area of approximately 34 x 34 metres
The Orson Welles Connection
The cistern gained international fame when legendary director Orson Welles filmed key scenes of his 1952 adaptation of Othello here. The filming reportedly ran out of funds and had to be paused for months, but the cistern's eerie grandeur translated powerfully to screen. A bust of Welles now stands near the entrance to the medina in his honour.
Visiting the Cistern: What to Know
- Location: Inside the Portuguese Medina (Cité Portugaise), easily walkable from the town centre.
- Opening hours: Generally open daily, though hours can vary — arrive in the morning for the best light.
- Entry fee: A modest fee applies; always carry small change in dirhams.
- Photography: The space is extremely photogenic — bring a wide-angle lens if possible. The reflection is best when natural light enters through the oculus.
- Best time to visit: Mid-morning, when sunlight falls directly through the skylight, creating a striking column of light in the water's reflection.
The Portuguese Medina: Worth the Whole Day
The cistern sits within El Jadida's UNESCO World Heritage-listed Portuguese City of Mazagan, inscribed in 2004. The wider medina contains well-preserved ramparts, bastions, a Gothic church (now a mosque), and narrow whitewashed streets. Plan to spend at least half a day exploring the full area.
Tips for First-Time Visitors
- Wear shoes you don't mind getting slightly damp — the water on the cistern floor can splash.
- Arrive early to avoid tour groups from Casablanca and Marrakech, who often visit in the late morning.
- Combine with a walk along the Atlantic ramparts for stunning ocean views.
- Local guides are available near the medina entrance and can provide rich historical context.
The Portuguese Cistern is not just an architectural marvel — it is the beating heart of El Jadida's identity, a place where centuries of history, culture, and light converge beneath the earth. No visit to Morocco's Atlantic coast is complete without it.